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Kapal tsunami: Wisata unik di Aceh

David Lawrence's picture

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Apa yang Anda lakukan kalau ada kapal seberat 2.600 ton mendarat di dekat rumah? Percaya atau tidak, ada beberapa orang yang bingung menjawab pertanyaan ini.

Tsunami yang menyapu Lautan Hindia pada 26 Desember 2004 tidak hanya membawa kerusakan dan korban jiwa. Kejadian tersebut juga menyapu PLTD Apung 1, kapal pembangkit listrik yang bersandar di Pelabuhan Ulee Lheue Banda Aceh, naik ke darat. Seharusnya kapal ini menghasilkan listrik untuk beberapa dekade lagi untuk mengurangi keterbatasan listrik di Indonesia.

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Tetapi kapal tersebut terangkat oleh tsunami hingga beberapa kilometer ke darat, tepat di tengah-tengah perumahan. Ketika saya pertama kali tiba di Banda Aceh pada tahun 2006, penduduk masih tinggal di beberapa rumah tepat di samping kapal itu. Sebuah jalan sementara dibuat mengelilingi benda besar tersebut. Di dekatnya ada kotak yang diletakkan di atas sebuah kursi, dengan tulisan tangan untuk meminta sumbangan bagi para korban tsunami. Pertanyaan yang ada di benak kami semua adalah: Apa yang akan mereka lakukan dengan sumbangan itu?

The tsunami ship: Offbeat tourism in Aceh, Indonesia

David Lawrence's picture
What do you do when a 2,600 ton ship ends up in your neighborhood? Believe it or not, there are people who’ve had to struggle with this question.


The tsunami that swept across the Indian Ocean on December 26, 2004, didn’t only leave behind wreckage and corpses. It also left behind the PLTD Apung 1, a power-generating barge that was docked in Banda Aceh’s Ulee Lheue port when the disaster struck.  It might have pumped out electricity for a few more decades, easing electricity shortages throughout Indonesia, before heading to the scrap heap.

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Instead, it was lifted by the tsunami and deposited several kilometers inland, smack in the middle of a residential neighborhood. When I first arrived in Banda Aceh in 2006, people were living in houses right next to it. A makeshift road worked its way around the massive obstacle. A box sat on a chair nearby, with a hand-written sign asking for donations for tsunami victims. The question we all had was: What on earth are they going to do with it?

Indonesia: A return to Aceh amidst hopes for peace and prosperity

Dini Djalal's picture

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My first trip to Aceh was in August 1998, four months after the resignation of former President Soeharto. It was the height of Indonesia's pro-democracy Reformasi movement, and many journalists thought that travel permits were still required, as it had been for decades. My friend and I were venturing as 'tourists'. In many villages, the legacy of repression remained: razed houses, shuttered schools, and households run by widows. Poverty was unavoidable; violence and economic growth are often incompatible.

Indonesia: Kembali ke Aceh di tengah harapan bagi perdamaian dan kesejahteraan

Dini Djalal's picture

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Saya pertama kali berkunjung ke Aceh pada Agustus 1998, empat bulan setelah mantan Presiden Soeharto meletakkan jabatannya. Saat itu adalah puncak gerakan Reformasi di Indonesia, dan banyak wartawan yang mengira bahwa masih dibutuhkan izin kunjungan untuk pergi ke Aceh, seperti yang memang dibutuhkan selama beberapa dekade. Saya dan rekan saya berkunjung sebagai “wisatawan”. Warisan penindasan memang masih banyak tersisa di banyak desa: runtuhan rumah-rumah, sekolah-sekolah yang tutup dan rumah tangga yang dikepalai oleh janda-janda. Kemiskinan tidak dapat dihindari: kekerasan dan pertumbuhan ekonomi hampir tidak pernah berjalan bersama.

Tujuh tahun kemudian: Mengingat tsunami di Aceh

David Lawrence's picture

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Jumlahnya terus meningkat. Pada awalnya dilaporkan 13.000 jiwa. Keesokan harinya menjadi 25.000. Lalu dilaporkan kembali 58.000. Di penghujung minggu, pada tanggal 1 Januari 2005, jumlah korban tsunami di Asia telah mencapai 122.000. Dan jumlah tersebut terus meningkat, tidak ada satu orang pun yang tahu kapan jumlah tersebut akan berhenti meningkat.

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Seven years on: Remembering the tsunami in Aceh, Indonesia

David Lawrence's picture

Also available in Bahasa

The number just kept getting bigger and bigger. At first it was a staggering 13,000. The next day, over 25,000. And then, 58,000. By the end of the week, on January 1st, 2005, the death toll of the Asian Tsunami had reached 122,000. Yet the number kept climbing, and nobody knew when it would stop. 

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From Sumatra to Haiti, the importance of increasing government capacity in responding to disaster

Cut Dian's picture
In Indonesia, a national disaster management agency was set up in 2008 to serve as a guardian of disaster risk management. The agency's important role was clear in the aftermath of a West Sumatra earthquake in 2009.

Five years after the tsunami: recollections from my work on ground zero in Aceh, Indonesia

Geumala Yatim's picture
Explaining the housing program admistered by the Multi-Donor Fund to a group of residents.

(Geumala Yatim, who started working with communities in Aceh soon after the 2004 tsunami hit, is writing a book about her experiences there. This is adapted from one of its chapters).

At the time, I was at my friend Oscar’s house, getting ready to attend a Christmas party at another friend’s house. Oscar asked me to turn the TV on to CNN or BBC. “I heard there’s a big natural disaster somewhere on the tip of Sumatra. Aceh probably. Not sure,” he said. Up until we left the house, both channels were relaying non-stop reports on natural disasters in Thailand and Sri Lanka. No reports on what was happening on the tip of Sumatra thus far.

Aceh five years after the tsunami: where have all the customers gone?

Harry Masyrafah's picture

It surprised me a little bit when I was driving my family along the west coast of Aceh a couple of weeks ago. Not too far from Banda Aceh, the capital city of Aceh’s province, a 15 meters wide- fresh-paved asphalt road built by the US absolutely has framed Aceh into another window of opportunity. This strategic road will connect Banda Aceh and some other districts in the west coast, which was washed away by the tsunami.

Indonesia: Bio-gas project keeps pig farm waste from going to waste

Nia Sarinastiti's picture

Pig farmers in Nias pull a 'waste disappearing act' by converting manure into useable energy.
At one of my trips to Nias, Indonesia, I discovered that a pig pen can actually be so clean without any spot of dirt or waste. It was something I have never imagined after seeing pig farms that have mud (of all kinds all) all over the place. You can imagine what it would look like, right?

The clean pig pen I saw was in the village of Tetehosi, Idanagawo sub-district owned by a farm group with the name Ternak Harapan Maju which means, “Farm Hopes to Progress.” The pen is managed by priest Sabar Markus Lase, not only because he knows about pig farming, but also because the pig pen is in the backyard of the church.