You can only see Ismail’s profile in the BMW he is driving on a desert highway stretching from Doha to Dukhan. He speaks French. I don't. So he says, in English, pointing to the beautiful homes along the way, "those are the new houses of the big people from Doha."
The car radio is tuned to QBS Country, a station that plays American country music on Qatar Broadcasting Service. "Is there any Qatari music on the radio?" I ask. Ismail fiddles with controls, but after a while, QBS Country is back on. The desert wind hums and whistles as Alan Jackson sings, "Don't rock the jukebox...."
"How long have you lived here, Ismail?"
"Eighteen months," says Ismail. "Too long."
Eighteen months is indeed a long time for migrants in Doha, but the desert land of Qatar has become an oasis for migrants. Relatively speaking, it is by far the largest destination for migrants in the world.
"Do you send money home, Ismail?"
Ismail turned around to briefly look at me. He thought for a moment, and said, "Yes, about $300 each month."
"How much do you make, if I may ask?"
"Money is good. About $550-600 a month." he said nonchalantly.
Four out five persons in Qatar is a migrant, implying that for every adult Qatari male, there are about 8 migrants! Three out of four migrants are men, mostly unskilled. Like many neighboring countries, Qatar does not publish data on outward remittances.